Books: Cooking by Cuisine -> Cooking American
Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest
Ten Speed Press
Published: July 1, 2000
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At Wildwood, the popular Portland, Oregon, restaurant, chef Cory Schreiber cooks dishes closely tied to local foods of the Pacific Northwest. A fifth-generation Oregonian and fourth-generation restaurateur, he is devoted to the plump oysters
of Yaquina Bay, wild mushrooms from the slopes of the Cascade Mountains, and juicy berries from the Willamette Valley--all recognized as world-class ingredients.
Wildwood the cookbook holds your attention in the kitchen and out. Schreiber shares
his family's history, starting in 1864, when his great-grandfather settled in Oysterville. He describes his experience as a boy catching a 24-pound wild king salmon he could barely hold on the line, then explains why its firm flesh is prized and
recommends poaching or grilling as the best ways to cook such firm-fleshed fish.
Through his recipes, Schreiber shows how to build on the glorious flavor found in the best-quality ingredients. His Tomato and Fennel Vinaigrette is based on Summer
Tomato Sauce seasoned with garlic and fresh herbs. Olive Oil-Braised Bell Peppers use the Mediterranean technique of simmering vegetables in oil until they are meltingly tender. While Schreiber spotlights the foods of Oregon, cooks everywhere can emulate
his respect for local ingredients and for the land and waters that produce them. --Dana Jacobi
From Publishers Weekly
"The quality of ingredients that you select will determine, long before you begin cooking the meal, how the flavors, textures,
and overall appeal of a dish will be achieved." This is the premise of Wildwood, the restaurant located in trendy Northwest Portland, Ore. Hazelnuts, salmon, quail, wild mushrooms, Dungeness crab in winter and blackberries in summer make the Pacific
Northwest a cook's paradise. And Schreiber uses this bounty to its full advantage, showcasing dishes such as Salad of Field Greens with Crispy Fried Oysters, and Aioli and Smoky Bacon on an Herbed Crepe. Still, there are few pitfalls. Some recipes
overprepare: Chanterelle Soup with Dried Apples, Hazelnuts and Apple Brandy calls for fennel seeds, apple cider and a leek, none of which rescue this flavorless puree (the dried apples and hazelnuts are merely a garnish). Some dishes, including
Blackberry Cobbler with Cornmeal-Biscuit Topping, are loaded with sugar and heavy cream. Local produce sometimes gets lost among such nouveau cuisine embellishments as parsnip puree. However, one can easily skip the parsnips and savor the rich entr?es.
Shoulder of Lamb Braised with Pinot Noir and Raisins is complemented by a curried Carrot Puree described thus: "Stir in the curry and cook for 3 to 4 minutes to allow the flavor to bloom." (Why bother cooking when one can drool over directions like
this?) Schreiber's helpful tips, homey desserts (Apple Apricot Ginger Buckle, Warm Bartlett Pear Brown Betty, etc.) and unusual combinations are coupled with gorgeous photographs to make his book a mouthwatering addition to any cook's library. (June)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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