Books: Cooking by Cuisine -> Cooking French
Mastering Simplicity : A Life in the Kitchen
Published: October 20, 2003
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From Publishers Weekly
Delouvrier, former executive chef at Lespinasse, doesn't skimp on the duck fat or creme fraeche in his chronological tome, which details his rise from hotel school in Toulouse to the four-star kitchen of the now defunct
Lespinasse in New York City. Along the way there are charming anecdotes about boyhood weekends on his grandparents' farm, learning the ropes as a lowly worker in the bustling kitchen of Paris's Cafe de la Paix, and becoming the chef de cuisine at New
York's Maurice Restaurant. Delouvrier's recipes are not as accessible as his prose, however. The Cassoulet, for example, has 23 steps and over two dozen ingredients; and the Bouillabaisse has separate recipes for the stock, rouille and croutons. Even the
seemingly simple Marie Louise's Rice Pudding demands nearly two hours of one's time, although the end result is, admittedly, stellar. Also, although it is interesting to see how Delouvrier's recipes develop over his 40-year career (from Coq au Vin to
Stewed Chicken with Cream and Tarragon to Stuffed Chicken with Truffles Poached in Bouillon), the evolution is not nearly as dramatic as one might expect.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.
portrait of the life and cooking of Lespinasse's Christian Delouvrier, the four-star chef who has defined French cuisine for the American dining public
Celebrity chefs continue to fascinate growing numbers of increasingly sophisticated foodlovers.
Now, Mastering Simplicity puts the spotlight on Christian Delouvrier, one of today's brightest and most distinguished culinary stars, celebrated by Florence Fabricant in the New York Times as "a cook whose entire culinary life is a testament to
tradition." Part memoir, part cookbook, it captures the things that have brought Chef Delouvrier to the top of his profession as Executive Chef of the acclaimed four-star restaurant Lespinasse in New York City: his devotion to the best ingredients, his
unique blend of techniques, and his mastery of the culinary traditions of southwest France. Chef Delouvrier shares valuable insights on his techniques and the chefs and restaurants that have influenced his style of cooking, along with entertaining
anecdotes that bring his experiences to life. At the heart of the book, he shares a variety of his best-loved recipes from around the world, a repertoire of personal favorites that include a delightful Veal Stew (Toulouse), an Upside Down Apple Tart
(Paris), and Salmon Cooked in Olive Oil with Arugula Salad and Balsamic Vinegar (New York). Dozens of color and more than 50 black-and-white photographs display finished dishes and capture the life of the chef in his early days in his grandmother's
kitchen and on his journey to Lespinasse.
Christian Delouvrier (New York, NY) is Executive Chef at Lespinasse (at the St. Regis Hotel). Trained at the Lycée Hand#244;telier of Toulouse, he worked in several Michelin-star restaurants in Paris before
moving to New York, where he was a chef at Les Célébrités. Jennifer Leuzzi (New York, NY) is a publicist who studied at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier in Paris.
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